Shampoo With Sodium Laureth/Lauryl Sulfate

I would like to state first that I am not going to discuss the safety of this ingredient here.  If you want to know more please see the links below.  You will have to decide if Sodium Laureth Sulfate is safe for you.

Sodium Laureth Sulfate and Sodium Lauryl Sulfate are detergents(SLS).  You almost always find them in shampoos, body wash and face washes.  It has been the trend lately to take SLSs out of shampoo (also called Sulfate Free Shampoos) and face washes.
Wen hair care and Pureology are some of the hair lines that have taken SLS out of their shampoos. Basically SLSs are degreasers and can strip your skin and scalp of all your natural oils. Also it is what make your washes suds up. It can strip your barrier function. Sounds bad, right?  Well for most people that is a bad thing.  Especially people who are prone to dry skin.  But for me SLS free shampoos left my scalp extremely scaly and with a lot of hair loss. I would say that its like adult cradle cap. I have talk to other people and read about other people who have had the same problem with SLS free shampoos.  So what is happening? I think that certain amount of the population has an oily scalp and thicker hair and that keeps the extra oil on the scalp and mixes with dead skin cells and together it forms scales on the scalp.  And when that does not get removed with a SLS shampoo it causes hair loss, Because the scalp can't breath.  For me it was very upsetting.  

So what can you do?  First find a shampoo that is for your hair type that has SLS in it.  Or, you can commit your self to brushing your hair for a few minutes a day. Sounds obvious  but if your like me. A busy mom who wears a messy bun most days, if found I had no need to brush my hair but once a day.  Brushing mechanically exfoliates you scalp and gets rid of the scales and allows the oils from your scalp to travel down the hair shaft.  Also if your determined to use SLS free shampoo (it is better for color treated hair) then try washing your hair daily.  Now a case can made saying that SLS shampoos strip the scalp so much that it over produces oil.  This could be true.  In theory it using SLS free shampoos should correct the problem.  For fine/oily hair this might be the case, but I needed something stronger to get out all the hair products I use daily.  Waiting until Sunday to use a striping shampoo didn't seem to work for me.  What it boils down to is that if you have been using SLS free shampoo and your scalp is scaly and you are loosing a lot of hair, then its not the right shampoo for you.  

As for the body washes and face wash.  Use SLS washes if you need to, but if your skin is super dry after the shower than you should use something marked "soap free".  I personally like french made soaps.  They seem to be a lot gentler on the body skin and for the face, there has been a whole new class of gentle face wash. And best of all they are pretty cheap.  Just make sure your washing 2 times a day.  

By the way, I love Pureology and believe in their cause.  But there shampoo is just not right for me.  But the conditioner and styling products are. 

http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/shampoo.asp

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_laureth_sulfate#Irritation

http://www.wenhaircare.com/?uci=ous116&s_kwcid=TC|1026589|shampoo%20wen||S|e|15019752976

http://www.pureology.com/

Salicylic Acid Pads/Quick Tip #2

Quick tip #2

Salicylic Acid pads are great to clean your neck, ears, upper back and chest when your doing your daily routine.   I personally break out some times on my neck.  I think that my conditioner does it.  Sometimes I forget to take extra care in the shower to remove any trace of condition from my neck and upper back.  So I use the pads before bed to clear up my neck quick.  When I do facials,  a lot of people have ears full of blackheads.  These pads are great to clean you ears on a daily basis.  Salicylic Acid unclogs the hair follicle and prevents pimples and black heads from forming.  I recommend a pad with no alcohol in it.  Remember alcohol removes all the oil from your skin and your skin still needs some oil on it to protect it from the environment and to keep it moist. The pad I am using right now is Stridex Daily Care Acne Pads with Salicylic Acid-Maximum strength. I find them to work in 2-3 days to clear up my neck when I have a break out.  And they are not drying at all.

http://www.stridex.com/

Quick Tip/ Washing

Quick tip of the day.

I know that this is a super obvious tip but, you would be surprised on how many people don't do it.  Wash your face 2 times a day with mild soap.   Even if you don't wear makeup.  Especially if you do wear makeup.   But it must be as mild as you can get it.  Remember, you must protect your barrier function. I personally find  that my skin stays very clear if I am gentle with it, wash it 2 times a day and save the scrub for once a week.  You know if you have the right cleanser if you remove all your makeup and your skin stills feels soft after washing it.  Your cleanser should never make your skin feel tight. If you keep up on the routine for 2-3 weeks, you will find your self with much clearer skin.

There are a huge assortment of cleansers out there.  Something in all price ranges.  The one I keep in my travel bag and use in a pinch is Dr. Bronner's Magic soap(about $3 for a small at Target).  In lavender or rose.  Its gentle and very cheap.  Also it smells fantastic. You only need 2 or 3 drops and a small bottle will last for months.  My favorite is Yonka of Paris-Nettoyant Creme Cleanser($38). Cost a bit more but it is so lovely.

There is so much to be said on the topic but I will save it for another post.

http://www.drbronner.com/
http://www.yonkausa.com/

Retin-A

What you need to know about Retin-A and how it can help just about everyone.

My intention with this post is to help all of those teenagers that are on Retin-A and help everyone else understand how it can help to keep you skin looking young. Also I want to keep my tips simple so you can get on using Retin-A as fast as possible.

Lets get this part out of the way. Here are the drug facts about Retin-A.http://www.webmd.com/drugs/drug-1192-Retin-A+Top.aspx?drugid=1192&drugname=Retin-A+Top

What is Retin-A?
Retin-A and Renova are brand names of a retinoid called Tretinoin. Basically it is a topical Vitamin A. Retin-A comes under names: Atralin, Avita and Tretinoin. There are creams and gels.

Who uses Retin-A?
Most of the people I meet who are on Retin-A are teens who have had it prescribed by their doctor for Acne. However it also can be used to reduce wrinkle depth and lighten age spots.
There are many types of creams that Retin-A is in. I personally use Retin-A Micro. 0.1% strength in Gel form. This is a form that has a timed release that is easier on the skin. I also chose this form because it has no mineral oil or petroleum in it. Renova has mineral oil in it and so I felt that Renova would clog my pores.

What does it do for the skin? For people who have acne it helps the cell turn over so the pores stay clear. There for the skin clears up.
For everyone who uses it Retin-A boosts collagen production. It reduces the number and depth of wrinkles. Preserves the thickness of the skin as we age. It generates new blood vessels. Reduces pore size (with adequate hydration). It lightens freckles, age spots and blotches. It also may help with Acne scars. It will make your skin accept moisture better. This is not an over exaggeration. Retin-A really does all of these things. That is why with out a RX it cost at least $150 for Brand Name.

What are some of the problems that people have with Retin-A and Renova?
Extreme dry skin, rawness, cracking of the skin around the mouth, not being able to wax, sun burn and stinging.

How can you reduce side effects?
When I started using Retin-A micro I started with the highest dose and use a very heavy hand.
After about a week my skin was peeling like a snake and I had red blotches all over my face. Every thing I put on it stung except two products. Geranium Regenerating Serum from Naturopathica and Sensitive Skin Soothing Serum from Dr Murad. Those two products eased my side effects but did not heal them. When my skin got so bad I could hardly smile with out my face feeling like it would crack off, I stop the Retin-A for about 4 weeks till my face returned to normal. I still used those products to help heal my face. When I started again I took it easy with the Retin-A. Here is what I did and some tips.

• Start out with the lowest concentration.
• First I mixed a pea size with my favorite moisturizer (do not use a moisturizer that has AHAs, Vitamin C, Benzoyl peroxide or Salicylic acid) every other night for about 10 days.
• The I mixed a pea size with my favorite moisturizer every night for about another 10 days.
• Then I started with a pea size amount, I doted it on my cheeks, nose, forehead and chin and then spread it over your face. This amount will not feel like enough but Retin-A travels on the skin and it will move to all areas of your face. Including your ears. Do this every other day for 10 days.
• Then do the same as above every day. Don't skip days. Your skin will still peel but it will not be as bad as if you started out using it everyday.
• Use a super gentle cleanser. Currently I am using Dr. Bronner's Magic Soap-Hemp Rose.
• If you skin is not red but is flaky you can use a wash cloth to wash your face with in the morning and at night.
• If you skin gets red and sore. Stop using it for a few days and the go back to using every other day for a while.
• I use a very gentle moisturizer in the morning. Currently I am using Nivea Anti-Wrinkle Q10 Night Care. If I am going out in the sun I will use sunscreen on top of that.
• You may not ever go out in the sun with out Sunscreen while using Retin-A! You will get sun spots and you will get burnt!
• Do not wax you face while on any Retin-A products.
• If I am going on vacation in a sunny location I stop using Retin-A for about 2 weeks before I go away. I still use my sunscreen though.
• Do not use the formuals that have mineral oil in them if you are prone to breakouts. If your skin is super dry already, mineral oil may be okay.

Here are some things to remember when you start out. Do not mess around with this stuff, you will be very sorry if you use to much. I know that you will want results right away, your skin will look like a lizard if you are not careful. Remember you are going to be using this treatment for a long time. You will have wonderful results if you stick with it. If you have acne you may see things getting worse before they get better. You should see you skin getting better after 4 to 6 weeks. You may not want to start this when your prom is 2 weeks away. If you are using Retin-A for Anti-Aging you will start see results 3-4 weeks. I have been using it for almost a year and my skin looks so much clear and firmer.

Is all this trouble worth it?
In my opinion, it is! Yes, you have to go get a RX and yes, start up is tedious but the end result it wonderful. I have no crows feet or frown lines. My skin is perfectly clear. Many of my clients younger than me (I am 35) have the many smile lines, crows feet, sun damage and many other signs of aging. I started because I started seeing the very beginning of frown lines. From my experience frown lines are darn near impossible to improve. The only options is injectables. Please note, if you have really deep frown lines, they will not go away with Retin-A but they will look alot better. My freckles went away, my frown lines went away and my skin had a wonderful rosy glow. This is the best working anti-aging cream I know of. I have tried everything else including daily Glycolic acid use. I use less products now. I use a cleanser, a moisturizer and a sunscreen. I don't even use eye cream. Now there are some people who can't use Retin-A. I will not leave them out of my post. I will post on other anti-aging products soon.

http://www.naturopathica.com/index.html
http://www.murad.com/
http://www.nivea.com/products/show/263

Please read this. This is the single most important thing to learn about skin care.

All about your skin's barrier function.

The barrier function of the skin is what protects your skin from the environment and from water loss from the skin. To further break this down, your acid mantel is what protects your skin. Acid Mantel: A thin layer of sweat and oil on your skin. This is what keeps you waterproof. When this is stripped away you can create a whole host of problems. Most people strip the acid mantle when we wash with hot water or harsh soaps. When you strip your skin of its acid mantle you leave it very sensitive to outside damage. This alone will make your acne or dry skin worse. It can make your skin oilier because your skin thinks it needs more oil because you washed your skin until its' squeaky clean. If you strip your skin it can become very dry. When your skin is dry it makes the signs of aging worse. Fine lines will show up more readily. People who have rosacea should take extra care with their barrier function. MD Formulation's Anti-Redness kit is the best I have seen to treat rosacea without over drying the skin. When women are going through menopause they are at risk of an impaired barrier function. Because the shift in hormones can cause your skin to produce less oil. The change in hormones can also make you break out and be dry at the same time. See if you strip your skin with harsh cleanser your skins water evaporates off of your skin and you can't stay moisturized. Moisturizers help, but sometimes moisturizers will evaporate too! (That's why you can moisturize your legs twice a day and they are still dry)/ Now you could use products that have petroleum byproducts in them and that's fine for your body, but they are too heavy for your face.

What compromises your barrier function.

Wind
Harsh soaps
Smoking
Smokey bars and restaurants
Coffee and caffeine
Traveling (air planes, car heaters and air conditioners)
People who do outdoor sports
Medication (especially acne and hormones meds.)
Hot water
Washing more than twice a day (after a work out is the exception)

Why sunscreen helps.

Sun screens with zinc oxide and titanium oxide can protect you from many of the above hazards.
Zinc oxide is the same ingredient that is in diaper cream to keep baby's skin soft and irritation free. For dry skin it creates a moisture barrier. It keeps water in the skin and environmental hazards off. For oily skin it tricks the skin in to thinking it has enough moisture and it can keep the skin from producing more oil. For sensitive skin it may help it from being reactive to the environment around it.

Cleansers

First stop washing your face with hot water! This irritates and strips all skin types including oily skin. Water should always be luke warm. You should never wash your skin till its squeaky. Your skin should always feel soft when your done washing. Look for a soap free cleanser that is pH balanced. I have more to say on cleansers later on in my posting.

Moisturizers

Water based moisturizers are good for some people, but most people would benefit from a more emollient moisturizer. People are afraid because they think that a richer moisturizer will break them out. Yes some moisturizers are too heavy for some, but what often breaks people out are fragrances and dyes. Some people who have breakouts can cure their breakouts if the just use the right moisturizer. I have more to say on cleanser later on in my posting.

Personal story.

I have a friend who had oily and thin skin with pink undertones. She always had problems with having a reddish nose and always had one or two large pimples. The way she took care of her skin is she used hot water and soap to wash with. She never used moisturizer and only used sunscreen when she was out in the sun. Needless to say her barrier function was severely impaired. I educated her on how she was making her skin worse. I had her use a soap free cleanser and luke warm water. I also had her use a daily sunscreen. Just by doing these things alone caused her tone to even out, she had less oily skin and she had a lot less pimples. (I will deal with breakouts later).

In conclusion do everything to protect your barrier function and your skin will always look great.

A word about Sunscreen

Why:
Wearing sunscreen is the easiest and cheapest way of preventing sun damage. Ask you’re self: When I am 50 years old and I am seeing major lines and dark sun spots on my face and upper chest will I regret not wearing sunscreen? Advanced corrective measures are exstreamly expensive and can be very painful. Consider using sunscreen daily, even in the winter and overcast days.

What type of sunscreen:
There are many types of sunscreens out on the market and it can be extremely difficult to choose one. First look for a full spectrum sunscreen. Make sure the ingredients include Zinc oxide or titanium oxide. The reason for this is because these ingredients are the most effective in protecting you skin from all the sunrays. Baby sunscreen is a good choose for the body. For the face you’ll want something lighter. My favorite is from MD Formulations. You can also use mineral make-up on the face but don’t forget to apply the body sunscreen to the ears neck and upper chest.

Most sunscreens for sports are often not full spectrum. Even though they say they are. Athletes should do there best to were clothing with sunscreen built in and re-apply sunscreen often. Look for sunscreens that are sweat proof and have Zinc and/or titanium oxide in them.

When to apply and for how long:
The most common mistake that people make when using sunscreens is that the don’t re-apply often enough. All the numbers on the sunscreen bottles mean is how long you can stay out in the sun without burning. SPF 15 in about 1 ½ hours. SPF 30 is about 3 hours. SPF 45 is about 4 ½ hours and 55 is about 5 ½ hours. These times change if you are very fair. If you are fair skinned you can trust SPF 30 for about 2 hours. Also it is important to Re-apply after swimming.

Where to buy:
Can buy sunscreen from anywhere but consider buying your facial sunscreen from somewhere you can take it back if you don’t like. Don’t buy anything you don’t love. If you don’t love it you’ll not use it. Be a label reader. If it doesn’t have zinc or titanium oxide in it, don’t buy it. This is the best why to make sure your getting full protection. An added benefit to wearing zinc of titanium oxide is the moisture in you skin does not evaporate. This is an added protection for people with dry skin.

How to apply:
You should apply first thing in the morning when you get ready for the day. People who feel that moisturizer, sunscreen and make-up is too much on you face, should consider using a tinted sunscreen and forget the moisturizer altogether in the morning. Use a richer moisturizer in the evening. Another option is where a lighter moisturizer and then use mineral make-up. When you apply you sunscreens make sure you apply to you neck, upper chest and the back off your hands. These show the signs of aging first. And also don’t forget to apply to your upper ears, my dermatologist told me the ears is were he takes cancerous mole off the most.

Some final words:
Sun glass and a big hat go a long why to enhance you protection from the sun. Follow these tips and you can look great though life and have lots of fun out side.

Update: After living in Bend Oregon for almost two years I have come to understand that, the higher up in elevation you go the more protection you need. If I remember right the UV rays are 4% stronger with every thousand feet you go up in elevation. For example Bend Oregon is at 3500feet. That means that the sun is 14% stronger in Bend. I also read there is a very high rate of skin cancer in Bend Oregon. So lesson here is if you live in a high elevation you must wear you sun screen.

Some web sites to look at are:

http://www.bareminerals.com

http://www.mdformulations.com/

http://www.bobbibrowncosmetics.com